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>> Earlier this week, Anja Rubik and Sasha Knezevic celebrated their new new-look take on Austrian magazine 25 — the official launch issue features Constance Jablonski, Karlie Kloss, and Abbey Lee Kershaw on three separate covers, all styled by Barbara Martelo and photographed by Marcin Tyszka.
Sal Morale (who appears in the issue with girlfriend Maryna Linchuk) DJed the fete in an old Paris apartment, where fellow featured subjects like Heidi Mount, Karlie Kloss, Alana Zimmer, and Kasia Struss joined him. The issue boasts an abundance of couture — “It is rare to get so many couture clothes in a magazine," Rubik told WWD — and comes in a limited-edition English version (2,000 copies) and a larger print run in German (50,000 copies). “It’s an Austrian magazine so it was important to keep a link between the first issue and Austria,” said Rubik, explaining fashion editorials inspired by artists Egon Schiele (photographed by Victor Demarchelier) and Gustav Klimt (featuring Eniko Mihalik).
Knezevic and Rubik are already hard at work on their next issue of the quarterly magazine; noted the latter: “One of our contributors will be Julia Restoin-Roitfeld."
[Editor's Note: I contributed to the issue.]
>> Joseph Altuzarra may have gone with an intimate presentation at Milk Studios last night, but his guest list packed a lot of punch. The Roitfeld clan was well-represented: Carine, Vladimir, and Julia were all there, with Vlad greeting his sister with a kiss on each cheek; his girlfriend, Giovanna Battaglia, and Julia von Boehm showed up, too. The Trainas were also out in full force: Victoria and Samantha sat next to Chad Muska (there to support girlfriend Vanessa Traina, who walked in the show for the second time and was listed in the program notes as an "advisor") and Alexander Wang, who was relaxing with his show behind him, enjoying a glass of white wine, and chatting to close friend and interior decorator to the models Ryan Korban. And then there was Anna Wintour, attending Altuzarra's show for the first time, who arrived early to have a chat with the designer backstage pre-show; after she took her seat, Carine smiled at Wintour as she passed.
Needless to say, Altuzarra did not disappoint. The designer, who pushed a looser silhouette last season when everyone else was hanging onto the hard-edged look interestingly decided to veer back that way now that everyone else is moving away. Inspired by Edward Scissorhands — the film's theme was played during the show — and the current sexualization of vampires, Altuzarra started out with a stream of black leather — accented with goat hair, slashed and then stitched up suture-style, belted multiple times across the waist, chest, back, wrists, and even thighs; Abbey Lee Kershaw was even suited up in a Catwoman-style leather bodysuit. Then came the blood red gowns, sparkling with Swarovski crystals and ending with Natasha Poly in the sophisticated version of a Little Red Riding Hood cape. The ankle-slashed boots were done in collaboration with Gianvito Rossi, and former Vogue Paris editor (and Carine's former assistant) Melanie Huynh did styling honors. Perhaps Bryanboy put it best when he said of the collection: "It's like raiding Carine's Closet."
>> Now we know why Naomi Campbell was spotted going into the shuttered Alexander McQueen store the same day the designer's death was announced: she was pulling together a tribute for the finale of her Fashion For Relief runway show benefiting Haiti. A veiled Daphne Guinness in catsuit in heelless shoes came first, followed by Heidi Mount, Sasha Pivovarova, Natasha Poly, Karen Elson, Angela Lindvall, Helena Christensen, and Naomi, all in Alexander McQueen — video here. Campbell walked backstage afterwards with tears in her eyes, holding Lindvall's hand.
On a lighter note, the season's first major model fall came at the same show, courtesy of Agyness Deyn, who toppled not once but twice in her Burberry heels. The audience cheered her on as she curtsied each time; she then took the shoes off on her way back down the runway. Afterwards, she Tweeted: "1st show of fashion week! Took a tumble! Got up! Fell again. Should have stayed down the 1st time. Twice! WTF! Ouch my knees!"
John Galliano Takes a Riding Crop to Spring 2010 Dior Couture, While Tavi's Giant Bow Grabs Some of the Attention
>> John Galliano kicked off Spring 2010 couture today with a show inspired by golden age designer Charles James (who influenced the original Christian Dior). However, much of the show's attention seems to pulled away from the clothes by the "outrageous pink bow," as one show attendee called it, on front rower Tavi Gevinson's head. A Grazia editor chimed in with "not best pleased to be watching couture through 13 year old Tavi's hat," and then posted a picture of her view from behind Tavi's Stephen Jones bow, with the caption, "Dior through Tavi's pesky hat."
But back to the runway. Riding habits and all the necessary accessories — whips and riding crops — abounded, flowing into frillier, ruffled numbers before ending in what appears to be a modern interpretation of the original Dior's Junon couture dress from Fall 1949. Galliano came out for his bow in full riding gear, dropping to one knee to kiss current Dior face Karlie Kloss's hand.
>> Natasha Poly may bend over backwards for Gucci — see her Spring 2010 campaign for the brand, below — but it seems to be working in her favor. The brand switched from working with Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin after several seasons to Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott for Spring 2010. As for Poly, who has consistently been in Gucci campaigns since the Spring 2005 season, she won't be going anywhere — Gucci has already renewed her contract again this year.
Sporting Prada crystals, Marc Jacobs tartan, Miu Miu pin-up prints, and headpieces made from small toys—Barbie legs, miniature cars, little army men—Natasha Poly appears in a new V magazine editorial shot by Glen Luchford and inspired by Courtney Love. Girly has never looked so grunge.
>> Not Everyone's a Fan of Those Alexander McQueen Armadillo Shoes —The now-iconic Spring 2010 Alexander McQueen armadillo shoes may be worn by the likes of Daphne Guinness in the everyday and Lady Gaga in her "Bad Romance" video, but a select few models wouldn't partake in the balancing act for the runway — perhaps that's why this season's cast seemed so young. According to Abbey Lee Kershaw, who once fainted in a corset at a McQueen show, she, Natasha Poly, and Sasha Pivovarova took one look at the shoes and collectively decided to forgo walking the show. [Frockwriter]
>> Karlie Kloss, Patrick Demarchelier Most Employed for 2009 Vogue Editorials Worldwide —Shrubrub, a contributor at the fashin LiveJournal took a tally of photographers and models whose work appeared in the 2009 issues of Vogue Australia, Vogue Brazil, Vogue China, Vogue Espana, Vogue Germany, Vogue Italia, Vogue Mexico, Vogue Nippon, Vogue Paris, Vogue Russia, Vogue UK, and Vogue, to see who was used the most. Apparently, Karlie Kloss and Patrick Demarchelier came out clearly on top — rounding out the top twelve models, respectively, were: Lara Stone, Sasha Pivovarova, Constance Jablonski, Raquel Zimmermann, Daria Werbowy, Anna Maria Jagodzinska, Eniko Mihalik, Jourdan Dunn, Lily Donaldson, Natasha Poly, and Iris Strubegger. [Fashin]
>> Steven Meisel co-opted the Twitter phenomenon for the last Vogue Italia issue of the decade — December 2009 — and rechristened Twitpic "Meiselpic" for his purposes. Inside the issue he wrote to his 20 model "followers" under a blurred portrait of himself — surprising, as the photographer is reclusive and does not like to be photographed himself —"Feeling a touch swine flu . . . so not coming to work today. I'm sending you some clothes . . . wear what you like, Meiselpic it back to me. xxSteven." What comes next — and is featured on the cover — are twenty pages of model self-portraits in the style of Twitpic. Lara Stone took the below picture of herself and "Twittered" underneath: "I love my new boobs. Werk!!" A pregnant Gisele snaps herself in lingerie, covering up her bump, and "Tweets": "Privacy is beautiful!" And Freja Beha Erichsen, who's not known to be a Meisel favorite, makes a surprise appearance, as well.