Olivier Theyskens

>> INSIDER WIRE —Before McBeha there was "Frina," the ambiguous pairing — or perhaps just the result of backstage boredom — of Freja Beha Erichsen and Irina Lazareanu, which produced quite a few pictures of the two caught up in the moment and being playful (NSFW).  Last night, Irina — who's back in Paris doing the modeling thing — found a new partner for play: Mischa Barton.  They were out celebrating Mischa's birthday with Giambattista Valli and Olivier Theyskens — who must not be too worried about his current situation, because he had a big smile on his face. [PopSugar]

>> If the couture show rumor mill is to be believed, Olivier Theyskens has officially left Nina Ricci.  Rumors of clashes between the designer and management have been around for over a month — management wanted to go more commercial, while Olivier is known for sticking to expensive craftmanship and creative vision over all else — part of the reason he was let go at Rochas in 2006.

Olivier's contract at Nina Ricci is up in October, and just two weeks ago, both brand and designer reiterated their commitment to each other through the term of the contract.  Apparently, Nina Ricci's Spring 2009 collection is failing to sell, however, and recently, Olivier still didn't sound ready to worry about the bottom line:

“When the economy changes, it’s not like you want to start eating bad-tasting chocolate.  You have to stay true to what you’re doing, and the house of Nina is about luxury.  I think it’s important to study the market and to feel you are right with it.  But if I felt we had to start doing simple clothes, I’d be doing them.”

There's no official confirmation yet about the departure, but this could explain why Ricci owners Puig were meeting with Peter Copping, Marc Jacob's right-hand man at Louis Vuitton, two weeks ago.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Marc Jacobs might be losing his right-hand man at Louis Vuitton, Peter Copping, who recently met with Mario Grauso, president of Puig.  This could mean Grauso is thinking of replacing Olivier Theyskens with Copping when his Nina Ricci contract runs out in October, or he could be looking at him as a successor to Carolina Herrera. [WWD]

>> Even though some think Olivier Theyskens's standing at Nina Ricci is tenuous because of his tendancy to produce expensive gowns, unmindful of current economic conditions, as of yesterday, he didn't seem worried — not yet anyway: “I am totally committed to Nina Ricci. None of us really know from where such rumors come up, but we are feeling very confident that things are going in the right place.”

Mario Grauso, president of Nina Ricci's parent company Puig Fashion, promised in December that Olivier would remain at the house at least through the expiration of his current contract — which is up in October: “At this point, we’re very happy with his contribution.  I look forward to seeing his next show, after which we’ll start the negotiations, which is typical.”

Yesterday, Grauso reiterated that he was behind Theyskens: "I feel like, as soon as I hire somebody, there’s rumors about them leaving.  To be honest, Olivier and I haven’t started to renegotiate, but right now we’re fine. I can’t help but be pleased. He’s done a great job.”  But it sounds like the Fall 2009 Nina Ricci show is key for Olivier, since Grauso is looking for him to tone down the extravagance, and would not disclose sales volume for the label: “[We're] trying to keep the prices down as much as we can; now’s not the time for $25,000 dresses.”
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Fashion fandom continues to be taken to new levels — Anna Wintour and Andre Leon Talley have now been made into downloadable ringtones for your cell phone, and Deer Dana, the label that produced the sketchy t-shirts of Andre Leon Talley, Agyness Deyn, and Hamish Bowles now has two Olivier editions — one for Purple editor Olivier Zahm, and the other for Nina Ricci designer Olivier Theyskens. [Cityfile, The Pipeline] 

>> The end of the year isn't here yet, and neither is the end of all the upheaval.  Yesterday, Bill Blass closed its doors until further notice, and today it looks like Olivier Theyskens may be leaving Nina Ricci.

Since his time at Rochas, Theyskens has been known for creating exceptionally expensive pieces — exquisite red carpet gowns have always been his forte over everyday resort collection-type wear — and as Fashion Week Daily notes, "As fashion executives rededicate themselves to focusing on the bottom line, the industry's creatives are certain to take a hit."  Theyskens is rumored to be exiting Nina Ricci "following a Spring 2009 collection that left retailers wondering backstage if the 'real collection' was available in the showroom."

The designer met with execs at Nina Ricci-owner Puig in November to "discuss adjusting future collections to the needs of the commercial market," according to industry sources, but something must have put a kink in the works, giving his continued tenuous stance at the company.  He's an Anna Wintour darling, however, so even if things with Nina Ricci don't work out, she'll surely find him placement elsewhere.
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>> Olivier Theyskens left a shuttered Rochas with a closet full of delicate gowns in 2006, but now that the house is being resurrected under newly-appointed creative director Marco Zanini, expect anything but more of those gowns.

According to Franco Pene, president of Gibo, the brand's new licensee, the brand will be much more straightforward than in the past: "We’re not looking to generate editorial hype, because we’re thinking of a sensibly priced luxury brand that caters to the everyday needs of women.  In other words, real clothes that are useful and beautiful. Zanini understands that we don’t want to be a status brand."

Pene sees the brand's forte not being in expensive red-carpet gowns like those of Theyskens, but rather in the day-to-day; Zanini was chosen for "his penchant for daywear and the fact that he will be fully dedicated to the line without having to divide his energy with a namesake collection."  Come March 2009, it will be interesting to see how Zanini turns over Rochas' new leaf.
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