Sarah Burton

Alexander McQueen

Sarah Burton Doesn't See a Couture Future For Alexander McQueen

Though a good deal of her clothing is made by hand, Sarah Burton doesn't envision adding a couture collection to her Alexander McQueen offering.



Though a good deal of her clothing is made by hand, Sarah Burton doesn't envision adding a couture collection to her Alexander McQueen offering.

"We do so many collections, and I want each one to be special," Burton said in a recent interview. "There is always a lot done by hand, even for the pre-collection. I know this is not Paris couture, but in our humble way we are working towards it."

Last year Burton led a team of lacemakers and seamstresses to create the custom wedding dress that Kate Middleton wore to marry Prince William. She also has a handful of private clients who commission custom clothing on occasion. Beyond that work, Burton says she's content with the company's "amazing ability to develop any collection with our technicians, with students and with people working by hand" in the ready-to-wear lines.

Still, other fashion houses are expanding their own handmade offering. Dolce & Gabbana recently confirmed that it will stage a test-run couture show in Sicily later this month, and Versace recently added a limited collection of fine jewelry to its haute couture offering.

Photo: A look from Alexander McQueen's Fall 2012 collection.

Editor's Pick

Alexander McQueen Resort 2013

The '70s style of David Bowie and the paintings of Gustav Klimt inspired the form-fitting, metallic-patterned Alexander McQueen Resort 2013 collection.
Alexander McQueen Resort 2013

The '70s style of David Bowie and the paintings of Gustav Klimt inspired the form-fitting, metallic-patterned Alexander McQueen Resort 2013 collection. After a few seasons of showing little other than intensely detailed dresses and gowns, Sarah Burton said she "wanted to bring everything back to the body." She accomplished that by pairing generously lapeled, torso-hugging blazers with lean, boot-cut trousers and by cinching those menswear-inspired looks with wide belts. Many of the dresses got the same belted treatment but featured fabrics and treatments — like an art deco metallic jacquard or intricate gold embroidery — that helped serve as a feminine response to the collection's more masculine pieces.

Spanx

Sarah Burton and Spanx Inventor Sarah Blakely Named to Time 100 List

>> Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen and Spanx inventor Sarah Blakely are the only two names in fashion to land on Time's annual list of the world's 100 most influential people.

>> Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen and Spanx inventor Sarah Blakely are the only two names in fashion to land on Time's annual list of the world's 100 most influential people.

Burton famously designed the wedding dress Kate Middleton wore when she married Prince William last year, and has been running Alexander McQueen since its founder Lee McQueen committed suicide in 2010. In the entry accompanying Burton's name, Sarah Jessica Parker — a longtime McQueen supporter — celebrates Burton's dedication to her craft. "She thinks about women and art and stories, weaves her tale into the future of fashion," Parker writes. "On the runway she is inspired."

Journalist Katie Couric penned Blakely's entry, in which she jokingly points out that Blakely doesn't need to wear her own waist-slimming products. "Poor thing," Couric writes, "She was a size 2 when the idea hit her."

The list honors other fashionable women who aren't in the industry — Viola Davis, Claire Danes, Rihanna, Adele, Pippa Middleton, and Kate Middleton are all included. An increase to two fashion names on the list is an improvement over last year; in 2011, Tom Ford was the only designer on the Time 100.

But Time hasn't forgotten about the runway set. The magazine recently released a list of the world's 100 greatest fashion icons, which includes Anna Wintour, Naomi Campbell, Steven Meisel, and Coco Chanel, among others.

Photo: The finale of Alexander McQueen's Fall 2012 show.

Kate Moss

When Sarah Burton Lied to Anna Wintour, Analyzing the Modeling Industry, and Kate Moss's 300 Covers

>> Those stories and more in our daily news roundup.



>> Those stories and more in our daily news roundup.

  • Sarah Burton looked Anna Wintour straight in the eye and lied to her about her involvement with Kate Middleton's royal wedding dress — not a feat most designers could pull off. According to Hamish Bowles, the editor cornered Burton and asked her point blank whether or not she was designing it, and Burton said no. "Anna was telling everyone, 'Sarah told me she's not doing the dress, so she's not doing the dress,'" Bowles said. [The Cut]

  • A few other pieces of Alexander McQueen's creations are on display as part of the Victoria and Albert Museum's current exhibit, titled British Design 1948-2012: Innovation in the Modern Age. Among other items included in the exhibit is "a tattered Anarchy in the U.K. T-shirt designed by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren." [Fashion Etc]

  • The Model Alliance today released an analysis of the modeling industry's working conditions and found that 68 percent of the models surveyed suffered from depression or anxiety, and 77 percent had been exposed to drugs and alcohol on the job. The analysis also revealed that 93 percent of models get their start in the industry before their 20th birthday. [The Fashion Spot]

  • Marissa Mayer is known as much for her position as one of the top female engineers at Google as she is for her penchant for designer clothing. "Oscar de la Renta is an amazing designer who works really well with color and detail which I think is something that's inspiring," she says. "When you want to treat yourself to something that's really beautiful, that really inspires you and captures your imagination, you should buy it." [BuzzFeed Shift]

  • Just how many issues of Vogue has Kate Moss covered? According to a new book, Kate Moss: The Making of an Icon, she's been on over 300 covers of international editions of the magazine, including her recent September 2011 cover of American Vogue. [Stylelist]
Paris Fashion Week

Alexander McQueen Fall 2012

All gorgeous iterations of volume and texture, Sarah Burton gives us a new slant on Alexander McQueen's futuristic sense with femininity and optimism for Fall 2012.
Alexander McQueen Runway Fall 2012

All gorgeous iterations of volume and texture, Sarah Burton gives us a new slant on Alexander McQueen's futuristic sense with femininity and optimism for Fall 2012. She tapped right into girlish fantasy from the very beginning and saw it all the way through in pinks, fuchsia, floral-embellishment, and the most extreme proportions of fluff and fur. There may be less of the provocative, darker sense that McQueen's later collections were made of, but that's not to say that Burton doesn't impress with her own artistry. The shapely play and construction are a testament to Burton's expertise. Floral-embellishments feel like full rosebushes on voluminous tiers, feathers and fringe move like beautiful sea creatures, and sculptural laser-cut looks have the delicacy of porcelain. In every piece, Burton tells her story — romantic, yes, but not tinged in nostalgia; with mirrored visors on, McQueen's girl is still looking toward the future.

  • Trends: Volume, texture, femininity, fur, metallics.
  • Colors: Pink, fuchsia, black, gray, white, silver.
  • Key Piece: The white and black laser-cut looks were a beautiful departure from the extreme volume.
  • Accessories: Fur, floral, and fringe-embellished platforms to match every look, visor-like glasses, furry mittens and gloves, fur collars, oversize metallic bows and flowers at the waist.
  • Who Would Wear It: The most whimsical and imaginative of fashionistas; Anna Dello Russo would be a perfect fit for the voluminous furs and pom-pom adorned looks.
Paris Fashion Week

Alexander McQueen Fall 2012

>> For Fall 2012, all the gorgeous, classic McQueen-isms were in place — hoof-like shoes, nipped-waists coats, drama to the umpth degree — but this season, Sarah Burton injected much more of her own viewpoint into the mix.
Alexander McQueen Runway 2012 Fall

>> For Fall 2012, all the gorgeous, classic McQueen-isms were in place — hoof-like shoes, nipped-waists coats, drama to the umpth degree — but this season, Sarah Burton injected much more of her own viewpoint into the mix. It came in the form of lightness, volume, and shining optimism. Silhouettes were lush, round, and frothy, with mirror-like details and masses of floral appliqué. Dresses were done in blush-hued tiers of ruffles, coats were capped by whisper-light tufts of ivory fur, and skirts were covered in intricate doily laces. "It’s futurism with softness, not cold futurism," Burton explained.

With a collection as magical as this, Burton's future is so bright she might want to wear shades. Maybe that explains the giant, super-dark visors covering each model's face.

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2012

>> Sarah Burton culled influence from the Victorian era — particularly, the ultra-full circle skirts of that period — for Pre-Fall 2012.
Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2012

>> Sarah Burton culled influence from the Victorian era — particularly, the ultra-full circle skirts of that period — for Pre-Fall 2012. Also worked into the mix: the nipped-in waists of '50s couture, lush fabric motifs inspired by Elizabethan art, and exaggerated silhouettes that hint at the work of Charles James. "I've raised the waist, kept the peplum, but moved away from the pencil skirt," Burton explained.

Best of 2011

Sarah Burton Is 2011's Designer of the Year!

When we asked you to choose the best designer of 2011, 58 percent of you chose mega couturier Sarah Burton — and rightly so.


When we asked you to choose the best designer of 2011, 58 percent of you chose mega couturier Sarah Burton — and rightly so. The Alexander McQueen designer has had quite a year; after taking the helm at the British design house, Sarah not only showed two otherworldly runway collections, but also wowed the world by creating one of the most famous and memorable gowns in history — Kate Middleton's fairy-tale royal wedding dress. We think 2012 will undoubtedly bring another year full of amazing fashion for Sarah, and we can't wait to see what other royal creations she has up her sleeve!

Best of 2011

Best of 2011: Vote For the Top Designer of the Year

You've seen their work on the runways, in memorable collaborations, in a royal wedding, and on the red carpet.

You've seen their work on the runways, in memorable collaborations, in a royal wedding, and on the red carpet. Now it's time to cast your vote for the year's best designer. This impressive bunch, which includes Karl Lagerfeld and Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci, have racked up major style points in 2011. In honor of their countless chic contributions, we've whipped up a quick refresher for you. Sarah Burton made herself a household name after taking the helm at Alexander McQueen and creating Kate Middleton's dreamy wedding dress. Giambattista Valli showed off his couture chops and delivered a playful line of party dresses for Macy's. Additionally, rumors started to swirl surrounding Marc Jacobs's unconfirmed move to the house of Dior. What else have these tastemakers been up to? Catch up on all their accomplishments and let us know who you think deserves this year's top honors!

Source: Getty and WireImage

Victoria Beckham

Sarah Burton Takes Home the Big Prize at the 2011 British Fashion Awards

>> This evening at London's Savoy Theatre, a who's who of British fashion gathered for The British Fashion Council's annual awards.
2011 British Fashion Awards

>> This evening at London's Savoy Theatre, a who's who of British fashion gathered for The British Fashion Council's annual awards. Victoria Beckham, accepting her Designer Brand of the Year award from presenter Marc Jacobs, told the crowd, "I am SO nervous," before shedding a few tears and adding: "This is rubbish." Alexa Chung, who took home the British Style award — which is decided by a public vote — dedicated her award to "girls who dress like awkward boys." Kate Hudson, presenting Red Carpet Award to Stella McCartney, regaled the audience with an anecdote about the dress McCartney designed for her to wear to her first Oscars: "I wore Stella and made every worst-dressed list. The next day, I called Stella, and she said, 'Face it babe, it was the hair.'" And finally, Sarah Burton, who took home Designer of the Year, called the award "the icing on the cake for what has been an amazing year."

The full list of winners, below.

Designer of the Year: Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen

Menswear Designer of the Year: Kim Jones
Accessory Designer of the Year: Charlotte Dellal for Charlotte Olympia
Designer Brand of the Year: Victoria Beckham
Model of the Year: Stella Tennant
Emerging Talent, Womenswear: Mary Katrantzou
Emerging Talent, Menswear: Christopher Raeburn
Emerging Talent, Accessories: Tabitha Simmons
New Establishment Award: Christopher Kane
Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator: Sam Gainsbury, Gainsbury and Whiting
Red Carpet Award: Stella McCartney
Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Award: Paul Smith
British Style Award: Alexa Chung