ricardo tisci

Givenchy

Givenchy Couture Fall 2012

Riccardo Tisci tapped into Game of Thrones decadence with his Fall collection.

Riccardo Tisci tapped into Game of Thrones decadence with his Fall collection. Setting the stage in an intimate appointment-only landscape, Tisci took his viewers into a luxurious, gypsy-inspired world surrounded by the trees. We can't help but feel transported to Sherwood Forest as the regal-like collection unfolded in rich red beading, embroidery, and laser-cut leather and fur. He tapped into luxury, but like all things Givenchy, the richness was never overworked or too precious. With easy silhouettes, you have the sense that you could carry off the most intricately beaded and embellished pieces as easily as Joan Smalls, who wears her glittering and fringed black and gold ombre top with a perfect nonchalance. That's the cool-girl quality Tisci never forgets; here it was the opulence of his details countered in effortless shapes, like a simple column gown finished with a fur caplet or an intricate, perfectly draped leather and fringe cape.

  • Trends: Fur, capes, thigh-high slits, leather, fringe, geometric embellishment.
  • Colors: Rich red, black, buttery brown, creamy beige, flecks of gold.
  • Key piece: The red beaded, fringe, and fur-trimmed capes and coats in black and brown.
  • Accessories: Visor-like shades, open-toe boots (and a German Shepherd).
  • Who would wear it: The ultraluxe gypsy; Carine Roitfeld was made to wear the fringed leather capes.
Givenchy

Givenchy Spring 2012 Couture

>> "It's a very sparkly collection, which, in a way, is very couture," Riccardo Tisci said of the 10 dresses he presented for Spring 2012 Givenchy couture.
Givenchy Spring 2012 Couture

>> "It's a very sparkly collection, which, in a way, is very couture," Riccardo Tisci said of the 10 dresses he presented for Spring 2012 Givenchy couture. Sparkly, yes, but there was a dark romance at play as well, one that no doubt came from Tisci's main inspirations: the 1927 film Metropolis and the 1924 Russian film Aelita: Queen of Mars. See the entire collection here, which — as is the recent Givenchy tradition — was photographed portrait-style by Willy Vanderperre.
Photos courtesy of Givenchy

Givenchy

2009 Fall Couture: Givenchy

Dark Lord Givenchy delivered one of the most entrancing Couture collections yet.
2009 Fall Couture: Givenchy

Dark Lord Givenchy delivered one of the most entrancing Couture collections yet. Ricardo Tisci dipped his goth glam hand into the Indian Ocean and came up swimming in gold headdresses, harem pants, sheer layers, jewel-encrusted accents, and serious mystique. Tisci strayed from his ivory/black palette and brought in straight jacket ombre red, and lime green and hot pink embellishments — a nod to Bollywood. Numerous black and gold getups stun, while a spiked and slitted black turtleneck gown emits pure dramarama.

Hermes

We Ain't Buying None Of Y'All's Hokey Homespun Value

What is it with this fake "down home" country as value resurgance we are seeing these days and no we aren't talking about America's hokiest Vice Presidential candidate.

What is it with this fake "down home" country as value resurgance we are seeing these days and no we aren't talking about America's hokiest Vice Presidential candidate. We find "straight talking straight shooters" to be contrived in politics and frankly we like it even less when it shows up in our fashion. And now we have not one but two major shows asking us to ride into the sunset thanks to an urban cowboy resurgance at Givenchy and Hermés.

Maybe the ride'em cowboy aesthetic was mere idle inspiration at Givenchy and admittedly we thought the black hat bad cowboy vibe worked in a strange way towards Ricardi Tisci's wider vision for Givenchy. But John Paul Gaultier's preposterously kitschy Wild Wild West theme for Hermés Spring 2009, complete with cacti, was clearly premeditated spectacle. And it doesn't make a damn bit of sense.

If country is the new urban, down home the new luxury, and meaningless clichés the new value then who the hell knows what feels "right" for the next season. We want no part of this clunky contrived artificial pandering. Not in politics and not in fashion. Sure, they say that cowboy is a perennial trend that pops up like clockwork but are any other designers genuinely doing a return to country seriously? We think not. And it feels even weirder coming culturally twice removed from a man who probably doesn't spend a lot of time on the open range if you catch our drift. Its cultural appropriation at its worst.

We are going to recycle another pony paddock bon mot and say you can only polish a turd so much. Country themes just don't make a lot of sense in luxury goods regardless of current events, even if you are a leather goods house. Its one thing if you make saddles but we are pretty sure no rancher we've ever met (and we're from Colorado) ever bought Hermés tack.

Thank God Hermés has separate merchandising and accessories teams or we would be forced to write off this entire mawkishly sentimental season as a complete and total farce. Blessedly someone took care of making sure reasonable luggage, belts, gloves and other proper commercial goods made it onto the runway so those of us concerned with the actual products shown have something to focus on. It is times like this when we wonder if Gucci doesn't have the right idea by putting a merchandiser instead of a designer in the creative director slot.

Burberry

On Our Radar: Designers Tackle the Olympics

Just because fashion designers don't play competitive sports doesn't mean they can't take part in the 2008 Olympics.

Just because fashion designers don't play competitive sports doesn't mean they can't take part in the 2008 Olympics. Au contraire, mon frère. Hong Kong-based retailer Lane Crawford has enlisted the help of 12 of the world's most famous names — Ricardo Tisci, Burberry (left), Phillip Lim, and Stella McCartney, to name a few — for "The Collective: Synergy in Fashion." The looks will be showcased at several events throughout the Olympic season in Beijing this Summer. After August, all of the one-of-a-kind garments will be auctioned, with 100 percent of proceeds benefiting UNICEF's Driving Dreams project. I've never been the athletic type, but this is dope.


To see designs by Alberta Ferretti, Givenchy, and more, read more