>> Christian Lacroix Shows Up on Golden Globes Red Carpet —Christian Lacroix's business may be reduced to licensing at this point in time, but it's a testament that without any new collections being produced, he's still scoring red carpet coups — to wit, his Spring 2009 couture at last night's Golden Globes on the much-watched Diane Kruger. On the other side of the spectrum, houses recently kickstarted under new creative direction also found their footing at the Golden Globes: Nicole Kidman and Carey Mulligan wore Peter Copping's Nina Ricci from Spring 2010, Ginnifer Goodwin was in Spring 2010 Vionnet by Rodolfo Paglialunga, and Chloe Sevigny took home her award in Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's Spring 2010 Valentino.
>> To an audience of only 75, Peter Copping sent out his first runway show at Nina Ricci in the salon above the brand's Paris store. Copping, who spent the past twelve years at Louis Vuitton, took Ricci to a much more feminine, commercial place than previous Ricci designer Olivier Theyskens. “I like wearable clothes,” he told WWD. “I’m not necessarily into being too avant-garde . . . whenever we did more feminine-based collections [at Vuitton], the sales were always incredible in the stores as opposed to the more austere or hard-edged things."
The Spring 2010 show was about all about the house’s “signature codes” — bows, lingerie, lace — Copping said, and he's keen to add capsule lines of lingerie and wedding dresses soon. So what's his verdict? Hilary Alexander called the collection "charming," T staffers were fans — Anne Christensen deemed it "very pretty" and Armand Limnander "lovely" — and Elle's Joe Zee, too, was won over: "I'm not usually a fan of romance (clothes that is) but Peter Copping's Ricci debut was a slamdunk in romance. Sweet but not saccharin."
Some, however, seemed more hung up on the switch to commerciality: Los Angeles Times's Booth Moore noted, "Olivier Theyskens' Nina Ricci was all vision; Peter Copping's is all saleable product." Suzy Menkes commented: "[It] is not necessarily a bad thing for a house [to be very commercial] . . . but Mr. Copping, having staked out his pretty girl territory, needs to take her to a newer place." And Style.com's Sarah Mower is holding judgment: "At first sight Ricci is now in a safe pair of hands but the jury's still out till next season."
As Peter Copping prepares to show his first ready-to-wear collection for Nina Ricci this evening in Paris, he hints at differentiating himself from Olivier Theysken's dark, romantic Ricci woman of season's past.
Copping plans to evolve the ultrafeminine look of his recent cruise collection, "with bows, lace, tulle and lingerie-like details" adding that Nina Ricci's core is "womanly romanticism" rather than "brash sexiness." Calling to mind Theysken's well-reviewed fall 2009 collection of super sharp jackets, skirts slit high, and gravity-defying platforms, Copping raises the question of wearability.
As the fifth designer to take the reigns at Nina Ricci in the past nine years—after Theyskens, Lars Nilsson, James Aguiar, and Nathalie Gervais—Copping claims his path to success will be a focus on what sells and not the avant-garde. His spring 2010 collection will be shown this evening at 8pm in Paris.
>> Peter Copping's First Nina Ricci Collection Said to be "Great" —We have yet to see any work from Peter Copping for Nina Ricci — his first collection for the line, for the Cruise 2010 season, was supposed to come out late last month and seems to be running a bit late — but it sounds like it's something to look forward to. Kate Betts's has "an extremely reliable Parisian source" who says that Copping's Cruise 2010 collection is "great." [Kate Betts Twitter]
>> INSIDER WIRE —Peter Copping is busy preparing his first collection for Nina Ricci — a capsule resort collection, which is expected to be unveiled later this month — and in the meantime, the house is trying to clear out all trace of Olivier Theyskens. On Friday, its holding a major one-off sale in Paris, with catwalk pieces and ready-to-wear spanning several seasons, as well as shoes and accessories going for as little as 40 euros ($55). [WWD]
>> Not that it was expected any other way — Olivier is officially gone from the brand and sources have been pinpointing him as next in line for months — but now it's official: Peter Copping is the new artistic director at Nina Ricci.
He started at the brand on Monday and is already hard at work on a capsule resort collection, which is expected to be unveiled in late June. It sounds like his first Nina Ricci runway show won't be in the Fall, but rather in March 2010 — the company wants to give him time to settle in (and hopefully get it right, considering that he's the third designer they've had within a span of three years — Theyskens started in 2006, and Lars Nilsson was in place before that).
Copping Confirmed To Take Over Nina Ricci Nina Ricci has officially confirmed Peter Copping as its new artistic director. Copping's first order of business for the fashion house is to design a capsule resort collection for Ricci’s flagship boutique on the Avenue Montaigne and shops worldwide. All eyes are on Copping!
Peter Copping has been named creative director at Nina Ricci and will show his first ready-to-wear collection during the Fall 2010 season.
Prada's Fall 2009 ad campaign, shot by Steven Miesel, may include a horse cameo.
Maison Martin Margiela has launched a home line, which will include one-off collaborations with other brands.
>> Nina Ricci is currently in a state of transition — Olivier Theyskens officially left the house earlier this month, and although Peter Copping's name has been thrown around as the replacement of choice, nothing has been made official. Apparently several staffers, including PR director Kate Etter, also left the brand with Theyskens.
Today, Mario Grauso, president of Ricci owner Puig, verified that there are "no plans [for] a hiatus at Ricci," adding that the company "will announce a new designer within the next few weeks." According to Fashion Week Daily, a well-placed industry insider is "99% sure" that Copping will be tapped, but Grauso would not confirm anything, and when prodded about a possible Copping appearance at the Costume Institute Gala, replied, "I have not yet invited people for the Met."
As for Oliver's legacy, those towering shoes he created for Fall 2009 will not be going into production — no surprise, but still, a comment on the ever-present misalignment between the brand and its former designer.
>> All signs pointed to Olivier Theyskens's imminent exit from Nina Ricci, and now it's official: house and designer released a joint statement revealing that Olivier is gone as of March 10, despite the fact that his contract goes through October.
Neither Theyskens or Ricci would comment beyond the statement, in which the house indicated it “wishes to re-orientate its development strategy for the years to come. Consequently, Nina Ricci and its artistic director Olivier Theyksens have decided by mutual agreement to cease their collaboration.” All signs point to Peter Copping, top design deputy at Louis Vuitton, being tasked with the reorientation as Olivier's replacement, but no mention of him was made in the statement, and thus no word on when he will be transitioning over for his first Ricci collection.