tailoring

It's safe to say most occupations employ a vernacular all their own — fashion speak, legalese, and medical jargon immediately come to mind — so it goes without saying that heading to the tailor requires a certain level of terminology know-how too. That is, unless you want your pant leg to be darted instead of hemmed. No need to be embarrassed about your current tailor-talk knowledge: this is a glossary safe zone. Is there a difference between bespoke and custom pieces? What is a vent? No, it's not an air filter we're referring to. When do you "take something in" as opposed to requesting darts — or do you do both? Is a cutter something scary? Read on for tailoring-term enlightenment and insurance against any further miscommunications.

• Baste — Basting is kind of like the bread and butter of tailoring and altering a piece of clothing. It describes the action of sewing long, easily removable stitches that are used to mock up a fitting, hold into a zipper into place, and keep slippery fabrics from moving. The next time your tailor is stitching you into something, chances are they're basting.
• Bespoke — A bespoke piece of clothing refers to a garment made from scratch to fit a customer's specific measurements and requirements. Its origin dates back to the days of London's Savile Row, when a customer ordering a garment would select and reserve a cloth or fabric, which automatically made it "bespoken" or "spoken for." Thus, there's no difference between bespoke and custom wares, as both speak to a totally personalized experience. More often, people get confused between bespoke and made-to-measure goods. Made-to-measure pieces are tailored from a standard-sized pattern mold; while the end result can be tailored to fit your body, the initial piece of fabric was not made especially for you.
• Cutter — Contrary to the sound of it, a cutter is the person who measures and fits the customer. From there, he or she makes a pattern from the measurements and observations of the customer's figure and posture. We'd say that's a pretty big job.

More tailor talk after the break.

Our network partner, Pretty Legit, gave a shoutout to one of our most favorite vintage finds: the marching band jacket. A structured vintage coat, whether it's a military jacket or other kind of wild costumery, always gets us going. What we like most about Pretty Legit's shoutout, to a fashionista wearing the marching band jacket, are the tails on this particular coat. If this tailoring is what you seek, picking up a vintage version is easy enough. Every tuxedo store in town should have this style of coat, and it shouldn't cost you more than $150 (especially if you can sneak yourself into a boy's version!). If it's the structure and lapel details that get you going, check out our spread of some options, below. Either way, a structured, tight-fitting wool coat is always a smart wardrobe staple, as our educated network partner, Pretty Legit, points out.

This Fall 08, Vivienne Westwood showed a collection in which school children painted on the garments. Said to have been inspired by global warming, the children were meant to imagine a eco-warrior-like future. The prints came out beautifully, though we're sure the most abstract and vibrant among them were chosen for the collection. Overall, Vivienne Westwood Fall 08 was not your typical 'this is the bleak future' aesthetic that puts utility and/or deconstruction before, well, fun. Instead, it was a playful, colorful, wildly tailored (as always) collection with wearable pieces that give us something more Spring-like to wear in the Fall/Winter months.


Links:
Oscar de la Renta Fall 08 Backstage
Oscar de la Renta Fall 08 Photo Gallery
Oscar de la Renta Fall 08 Video


It can be so hard keep track of content when its updated everyday. But we have impressive designer video interviews and original editorial spreads. May we cordially suggest perusing our selection? Enjoy New York Fashion Week Designer Video Interviews from Oscar De La Renta, Donna Karan for DKNY,Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi, Nicole Miller, Erin Fetherston, Ashleigh Verrier , Adam Lippes, James Coviello, John Varvatos , Monique Lhuillier, Joanna Mastroianni, Tory Burch, Neeam Khan

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